Friday, March 30, 2012

I have been fortunate to spend most of my life living and working in some of the most beautiful, historically rich, wild and biologically diverse national parks in the world. Yet, one can be in a place and not truly come to know it. Some places shout for attention with large and extraordinary features; others speak in whispers with the small and commonplace. Still, all of them reveal their essence only to those who take the time to venture away from roads and developed areas into the interior.

It is there that serendipitous discoveries are made and where one can come to truly understand the meaning of wildness, the connections among living things. Only in the backcountry, or at least away from the clamor of park roads and developments, can visitors discover hidden and little-know places. Locations where they can hear the the uncluttered sounds of wild critters or the subtle voice of a mountain stream and smell the pure fragrance of a meadow or forest. It is in these places that a person can experience an epiphany, a sudden revelation of meaning.

I have been to such places. They have spoken to me of the diversity and complexity that strengthen the wild environment, the abiding nature of ecological process, the relationships of living things with the physical world, the inevitability of death and the certainty of rebirth.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Author Freeman Tilden observed that when the Greek philosophers examined the world about them they concluded that the elements of earth, air, fire and water were the fundamental building blocks of all that they observed. Still, he said, they believed that there must be something else, something intangible. If they could find it, there was a soul of things, a fifth essence, pure, eternal and inclusive. I have discovered it in places like Yellowstone, Glacier, Sequoia and Everglades, and it has enriched my life with understanding and meaning.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012


Author Charles Jones was reflecting on our connections with the natural world when he wrote: "Places circle in my mind like gifting birds…Small, quick perceptions the gifting birds leave me…Some I can put together, not as a story or theory, but a sense of life, of place…Puzzle pieces without jigsaw cuts to define them."

So it is with me. Yellowstone National Park is both a real place, and a state of mind. It is a powerful physical and mental elixir for me—the kind of place where writer Barry Lopez has suggested that I can renegotiate my contracts with Nature. Because I have lived and worked in national parks my entire life, I feel a special kinship with Yellowstone. It is the headwater stream of the national park idea.

In a way, Yellowstone is both the beginning and end of a long personal odyssey—the culmination of a tradition. My journey to Yellowstone began many years ago when my father accepted a job in Lassen Volcanic National Park in Northern California. It foreshadowed a time when I too would work in a geological wonderland.

As a child, I had heard about Yellowstone. I was enchanted by the idea of its wonders. I had seen photographs of Old Faithful, Yellowstone Falls and grizzly bears in books and magazines. My teacher had talked about it in school. I formed a mental picture of what it must be like. In Lassen, I had seen fumaroles, hot springs and mud pots. I had watched steam venting from the snow-covered summit of Lassen Peak. My father had told me how ancient Mount Tehama had collapsed inward forming a huge crater called a caldera. Often, I had seen bears and other wild animals. Surely, I thought, Yellowstone must be similar.

I first briefly visited Yellowstone with my father when I was a few years older, but I only remembered seeing some of its popular icons—Old Faithful, Yellowstone Lake, Mammoth Hot Springs, some bears. Like many folks, my visit was brief and superficial. I did not return to Yellowstone until the last few years of my career, and it was only then that I began to see that there was so much more to this wonderland than the things that I had dreamed about and seen in my youth. Each day for ten years in Yellowstone, "gifting birds" brought me new and precious fragments of thought and feeling that began to coalesce into a deeper understanding of meaning and place.

I am not a photographer, yet everywhere in Yellowstone my eyes took hundreds of pictures, all perfectly focused and composed. I keep those images in my mind's album where I can recall them whenever I long to return. Opening the album I find hillsides carpeted with Spring wildflowers exploding with colors like a van Gogh landscape. On another page I see an infant stream rising in an alpine meadow more than two miles above the distant ocean that will eventually claim it. As the pages turn, I see fluted colonnades of volcanic rock, trout struggling upstream to spawn, a marmot draped over a sun-warmed rock on a talus slope. On still other pages I see iridescent dragonfly wings, colorful algal mats tended by tiny Ephydrid flies, a fawn standing for the first time on wobbly legs, a waterfall concealed by a winter shroud of ice. Thumbing through my mental book of memories I can watch Old Faithful erupt again, recall the spectacle of the great wildfires of 1988, and see a dipper walk under water in search of food.

Each time I open the album I am enchanted once more by Yellowstone and what it means. I am reminded that only as a manifestation of an idea, a dream realized, have people shaped this place. No human actions have sculpted it features, or filled its ecological niches with abundant and diverse life forms. Again I sense that there is a rhythm to nature—a subtle flow of energy that eastern philosophers called chi—that links all things together. In Yellowstone, and the places on its family tree, wild things move to a different cadence than we do. It is slow and measured, sometimes violent, but always harmonious.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

National parks are not secure islands unto themselves. Living organisms and the natural processes which bind them together are not confined by the lines that people have drawn on maps. Acknowledging these ecological truths, park scientists and resources managers have increasingly looked beyond legal park boundaries for relationships and connections. With the parks as the core elements, they have defined larger ecosystems which include neighboring lands and communities. The concept of greater ecosystems more aptly conveys a sense of the non-insular nature of natural preserves.

Lands and communities adjacent to parks represent the "ghost acreage," or the additional external acreage necessary for energy flow and exchange with living communities within the parks. For example, the welfare of certain animal populations is dependent on the availability and ecological health of areas to which they periodically migrate. The quality and quantity of water flowing into a park from beyond its boundaries can significantly alter the park's ecological balance. Air pollution generated in adjacent communities can threaten the welfare of park wildlife.

Yellowstone and Everglades are good examples of national parks where the greater ecosystem management concept is practiced,

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Welcome. I hope that you will enjoy these memories, thoughts, ideas and images gleaned from a lifetime in America's national parks.